Moon Shot

Moonshot
Getting photographs of the moon is one of those things that is deceptively easy. Click the next button to learn more!

Getting photographs of the moon is one of those things that is deceptively easy. Click the next button to learn more!

This is what happens to a lot of people's images of the moon. It's a result of trying to get a shot with the camera on full auto. What's happening is that the camera's light meter is taking readings across the entire scene, then it tries to balance

This is what happens to a lot of people's images of the moon. It's a result of trying to get a shot with the camera on full auto. What's happening is that the camera's light meter is taking readings across the entire scene, then it tries to balance it out. Leaving you with an overexposed moon. Here the camera selected F-5.6 at 1/30th of a second with an ISO of 3200 (which is why it appears grainy).

Instead, try using full manual mode. By taking control of the settings, I was able to properly expose just the moon. To do this, I changed my metering mode to Spot Metering. I also set my ISO to 400 to increase my shutter speed and reduce the chance

Instead, try using full manual mode. By taking control of the settings, I was able to properly expose just the moon. To do this, I changed my metering mode to Spot Metering. I also set my ISO to 400 to increase my shutter speed and reduce the chance of camera shake. I stuck with an aperture of F-5.6 which gave me a shutter speed of 1/500th of a second. Also, with this speed, there is no need for a tripod.

On this last one, I decided to have a little fun. I didn't change any of the exposure settings, but I did change the white balance. To give it more of a harvest moon type feel, I set the white balance to the Shade setting. This warms the image givin

On this last one, I decided to have a little fun. I didn't change any of the exposure settings, but I did change the white balance. To give it more of a harvest moon type feel, I set the white balance to the Shade setting. This warms the image giving the moon a orange-yellow look.

Creating a Panorama

Panorama
While it is possible to create a panoramic image by cropping a photo so that it is narrower, your resolution won't change so your panorama won't be sharp and you won't have as much detail. Instead, try creating one from a series of images and joinin

While it is possible to create a panoramic image by cropping a photo so that it is narrower, your resolution won't change so your panorama won't be sharp and you won't have as much detail. Instead, try creating one from a series of images and joining them together using Photoshop. Continue on to learn how I created this image!

Here are the five individual images I made with this project in mind. Notice that each image overlaps the next one a little bit. We do this so Photoshop will be better able to align them when it creates the panorama. Also, I wait to do any editing u

Here are the five individual images I made with this project in mind. Notice that each image overlaps the next one a little bit. We do this so Photoshop will be better able to align them when it creates the panorama. Also, I wait to do any editing until after the image has been stitched together. That way, there won't be any differences between each image in regards to color, contrast, vibrancy, etc.

After you have your images, open Photoshop, then click on File > Automate > Photomerge

After you have your images, open Photoshop, then click on File > Automate > Photomerge

This window will open where you can set the parameters and load your images. In the layout section on the left side, I left it on Auto. This usually does a pretty good job. Also, in the middle bottom, I checked the Blend Images Together option. Next

This window will open where you can set the parameters and load your images. In the layout section on the left side, I left it on Auto. This usually does a pretty good job. Also, in the middle bottom, I checked the Blend Images Together option. Next, I clicked on the Browse button to import the images I wanted to use.

After clicking the Browse button, I navigated to the folder where I saved my individual images. I selected all five and clicked the OK button.

After clicking the Browse button, I navigated to the folder where I saved my individual images. I selected all five and clicked the OK button.

Now, we can see here that all five of my images are listed in the Source Files section. I then clicked OK and let Photoshop do its work stitching the images together. This can take a couple of minutes, so please just be patient while it works on it.

Now, we can see here that all five of my images are listed in the Source Files section. I then clicked OK and let Photoshop do its work stitching the images together. This can take a couple of minutes, so please just be patient while it works on it.

Photoshop has finished bringing the images together, so now I can work on any edits I want to do. Immediately, I see there are transparent areas around the image that need to be cropped out. While I was cropping the image, I also straightened it out

Photoshop has finished bringing the images together, so now I can work on any edits I want to do. Immediately, I see there are transparent areas around the image that need to be cropped out. While I was cropping the image, I also straightened it out.

Here is the panorama cropped to my satisfaction. Next, I decided to do a little bit more editing because it looks a little dull. On a side note, you might notice the Layers panel on the right has each of the five images as layers and the mask shows

Here is the panorama cropped to my satisfaction. Next, I decided to do a little bit more editing because it looks a little dull. On a side note, you might notice the Layers panel on the right has each of the five images as layers and the mask shows which part of each image was used for the final panorama (the white areas).

In the previous step, I mentioned the layers. Before I edited the image, I decided to go ahead and bring everything into a single layer. To do this, I went to Layer > Flatten image. To finish it up, I adjusted the contrast and upped the vibrancy

In the previous step, I mentioned the layers. Before I edited the image, I decided to go ahead and bring everything into a single layer. To do this, I went to Layer > Flatten image. To finish it up, I adjusted the contrast and upped the vibrancy a little. I hope you found this useful and will explore creating your own!

Working with Long Exposures

Long Exposure
Making long exposure images is a fun and interesting project. As you might expect, there are several things you'll need to keep in mind before trying it. First, you'll need a tripod. Or, at least, a very stable surface. On one occasion I actually us

Making long exposure images is a fun and interesting project. As you might expect, there are several things you'll need to keep in mind before trying it. First, you'll need a tripod. Or, at least, a very stable surface. On one occasion I actually used a wall. The point is that it is pretty much impossible to hold a camera perfectly still for even a couple of seconds, and even a little camera shake can ruin your image. Next, I suggest using your camera's two second timer. By doing this, you once again reduce the risk of camera shake. Third, you'll need to decide if you want to shoot on Manual or Shutter Priority mode. Many find it easier to use Shutter Priority. That way, you can just set your exposure time to five seconds, for example, and let your camera figure out the rest. This usually works pretty well, but it has been my experience that sometimes parts of my image end up overexposed. Last, don't be afraid to experiment and have fun trying it out on your own! Please click on the next button to see some examples and learn the settings I used for each of the images.

(1 of 8) In this image I was shooting facing west just as the sun was about to set. Because of this, I needed a narrow aperture in order to get an exposure long enough to smooth out the water. Aperture: f/32 Exposure Time: 4 sec. ISO: 100

(1 of 8)

In this image I was shooting facing west just as the sun was about to set. Because of this, I needed a narrow aperture in order to get an exposure long enough to smooth out the water.

Aperture: f/32 Exposure Time: 4 sec. ISO: 100

(2 of 8) This image was made at the same location as the first at about the same time. So, I didn't need to change any of the settings. Another reason I like doing long exposure images is that they bring out more detail than most normal shots. In t

(2 of 8)

This image was made at the same location as the first at about the same time. So, I didn't need to change any of the settings. Another reason I like doing long exposure images is that they bring out more detail than most normal shots. In this shot, for example, you can really see a lot of the textures that make up this scene.

Aperture: f/32 Exposure Time: 4 sec. ISO: 100

(3 of 8) Here we have another water image using long exposure to smooth out the motion. Even though I made this one early in the morning and in a shaded area, I still had to go with as narrow an aperture as possible. This location as also a little

(3 of 8)

Here we have another water image using long exposure to smooth out the motion. Even though I made this one early in the morning and in a shaded area, I still had to go with as narrow an aperture as possible. This location as also a little tricky because too long an exposure actually smoothed out the motion too much.

Aperture: f/32 Exposure Time: 5 sec. ISO: 100

(4 of 8) For the next few, we'll look at long exposures at night. When shooting in dark situations, you can try a more mid-range aperture. This will give you much more flexibility. For example, in this shot at the county fair I also made another im

(4 of 8)

For the next few, we'll look at long exposures at night. When shooting in dark situations, you can try a more mid-range aperture. This will give you much more flexibility. For example, in this shot at the county fair I also made another image with a narrower aperture and a longer exposure. By doing that, the motion smoothed out much more, but the colors blended together more than I wanted. So, I tried a couple more with wider apertures and faster shutter speeds.

Aperture: f/16 Exposure Time: 5 sec. ISO: 100

(5 of 8) One of the most common uses of long exposure photography is to capture light trails from traffic. With these I actually started with my shutter speed. I timed how long it took for vehicles to pass through my frame and set my shutter speed.

(5 of 8)

One of the most common uses of long exposure photography is to capture light trails from traffic. With these I actually started with my shutter speed. I timed how long it took for vehicles to pass through my frame and set my shutter speed. Then, I adjusted my aperture to match.

Aperture: f/11 Exposure Time: 5 sec. ISO: 100

(6 of 8) Typically, I like to use a landmark to use as a background to the trails. I think this adds a little familiarity to an otherwise unique scene. Also, you might try setting up near a traffic light. By doing this, you can usually guarantee th

(6 of 8)

Typically, I like to use a landmark to use as a background to the trails. I think this adds a little familiarity to an otherwise unique scene. Also, you might try setting up near a traffic light. By doing this, you can usually guarantee that the vehicles won't be moving through the frame too fast to be captured.

Aperture: f/11 Exposure Time: 5 sec. ISO: 100

(7 of 8) I also always watch for semi trucks with lights down the sides. This makes the images a little more interesting in my opinion. Aperture: f/11 Exposure Time: 5 sec. ISO: 100

(7 of 8)

I also always watch for semi trucks with lights down the sides. This makes the images a little more interesting in my opinion.

Aperture: f/11 Exposure Time: 5 sec. ISO: 100

(8 of 8) This last one is a little different, but the principles are the same. Pratt had a major power outage on the night of June 16th. So, I decided I'd try to do something that would be impossible if all the street lights had been on. I set my f

(8 of 8)

This last one is a little different, but the principles are the same. Pratt had a major power outage on the night of June 16th. So, I decided I'd try to do something that would be impossible if all the street lights had been on. I set my focal length to infinity and set my aperture as narrow as the lens would allow. Next, to get the long exposure time, I set my camera to the bulb setting. On some cameras, this comes after the 30 second setting. Others will have it on the Mode Dial. The bulb setting will expose the image as long as the shutter button is pressed down. There is no way to hold down the button for 20 minutes without camera shake, so I attached my remote shutter release. As an added bonus, I was facing north and the moon was in the south. This illuminated the church quite nicely.

Aperture: f/22 Exposure Time: 20 min. ISO: 100

Getting Abstract with Smoke

SmokePics
Making abstract smoke images can be a fun and interesting project on those days when you're stuck inside. It can take some practice, so don't get discouraged! Please continue on to learn how you can create your own!

Making abstract smoke images can be a fun and interesting project on those days when you're stuck inside. It can take some practice, so don't get discouraged! Please continue on to learn how you can create your own!

As you can see, the setup is pretty simple. Just a black backdrop, an incense holder, a stick of incense, and a couple of lights. These are special table top lights that I use for product photography, but I have also used an ordinary desk lamp which

As you can see, the setup is pretty simple. Just a black backdrop, an incense holder, a stick of incense, and a couple of lights. These are special table top lights that I use for product photography, but I have also used an ordinary desk lamp which worked pretty well. Just so long as you have a way to direct the light onto the smoke. I placed the incense holder this way so that I could move it as it burned down in order to keep the smoke between the two lights. Focusing can also be difficult. The auto focus doesn't work very well because the smoke is constantly moving around. So, what I did was place my hand between the two lights were the smoke would be, pressed the shutter half way to focus, then switched the lens to manual focus to lock it in. Hit the next button to see what settings I used to capture the images.

Here, I have set my camera to Manual mode. You can also try Shutter Priority if you would like to concentrate on shutter speed and not have to worry about the rest. Next, I like to keep my ISO as low as possible to avoid digital noise on my image

Here, I have set my camera to Manual mode. You can also try Shutter Priority if you would like to concentrate on shutter speed and not have to worry about the rest.

Next, I like to keep my ISO as low as possible to avoid digital noise on my images. It might be tempting to set your ISO very high in order to get a fast shutter speed, but you also risk overexposing your image because the light being reflected off the smoke is very bright.

I suggest your open your lens to as wide an aperture as possible. I used my 50mm lens, so I was able to go all the way to f/1.8. This allowed me to shoot at 1/1000 sec. Plenty fast to stop any motion in the smoke.

Continue on to see a few images from this shoot.

To get the smoke to form patterns, all I had to do was lightly bump the incense holder. I hope you have enjoyed this lesson and will have fun trying it on your own! To see all of the images from this shoot, please visit my Facebook page .

To get the smoke to form patterns, all I had to do was lightly bump the incense holder. I hope you have enjoyed this lesson and will have fun trying it on your own!

To see all of the images from this shoot, please visit my Facebook page.

6-11-16 Smoke-4.jpg
6-11-16 Smoke-8.jpg
6-11-16 Smoke-15.jpg
6-11-16 Smoke-18.jpg
6-11-16 Smoke-22.jpg
6-11-16 Smoke-26.jpg
6-11-16 Smoke-34.jpg

Light Trails

LightTrails
Creating light trails with traffic is usually a pretty interesting project. If you would like to try this, you will need a tripod or something else that is firmly set to the ground (I used a wall one time). Read on to learn more.

Creating light trails with traffic is usually a pretty interesting project. If you would like to try this, you will need a tripod or something else that is firmly set to the ground (I used a wall one time). Read on to learn more.

First, I needed to adjust my camera's settings. To get as little digital noise as possible, I set the ISO to 100. Also, I knew I wanted a five second exposure. This gave me an aperture of f/10.

First, I needed to adjust my camera's settings. To get as little digital noise as possible, I set the ISO to 100. Also, I knew I wanted a five second exposure. This gave me an aperture of f/10.

If you aren't comfortable shooting on full manual mode, you can also use Shutter Priority. Just set your shutter speed (in this case, five seconds) and your camera will automatically adjust the aperture for you.

If you aren't comfortable shooting on full manual mode, you can also use Shutter Priority. Just set your shutter speed (in this case, five seconds) and your camera will automatically adjust the aperture for you.

In addition to using a tripod, I opted to use my shutter release remote. They are fairly inexpensive and very useful. However, you can also set your camera's two-second timer. The idea is that you don't want to be touching your camera when the shutt

In addition to using a tripod, I opted to use my shutter release remote. They are fairly inexpensive and very useful. However, you can also set your camera's two-second timer. The idea is that you don't want to be touching your camera when the shutter fires. The slightest movement can ruin your shot.

Finally, wait for the vehicle(s) to get just into frame before firing the shutter. This can take some practice, so don't get discouraged. A nice thing about digital photography is that you can try many times and not have to worry about wasting film.

Finally, wait for the vehicle(s) to get just into frame before firing the shutter. This can take some practice, so don't get discouraged. A nice thing about digital photography is that you can try many times and not have to worry about wasting film. As always, best of luck and have fun!